Randomness (r_ness) wrote,

Nyhavn Færgekro

Nyhavn Færgekro (Nyhavn Ferry Inn) is famous for its lunchtime sildebord (all-herring buffet). Kind of a cliche, I guess, and everyone knows about the place, but I like herring, and I was hungry.

Nyhavn Færgekro
Nyhavn 5
1051 København K.
tel: +
fax: +
email: nf@nf.dk, nyhavn@nyhavnsfaergekro.dk
http://www.nyhavnsfaergekro.dk/ (in Danish)
Daily: 0900-0100, kitchen open 1130 - 2330
(last visit: fall 2001)

Nyhavn has been a bit of a yuppified dockside bar and restaurant row for a good generation now, having left its rather raffish past behind. Nonetheless it's a picturesque place to have lunch, even on a cold wet day. Nyhavn Færgekro's decor is what you'd expect in this kind of neighborhood: a hearty, sailor's inn, cleaned up and made respectable, with solid wooden beams overhead.

The sildebord (Kr. 89, $16.11), is a pretty good deal for a buffet lunch in Copenhagen, which is probably why the place gets written up far and wide. And, truth be told, it hadn't occurred to me there'd be this many ways to make herring. It's good herring, too: herring marinated in various sauces, including sour cream cream, wine, and mustard; rollmops; smoked herring; pickled herring; salt herring. Really there were more ways than I could easily identify. Some of them were a bit salty for my taste but most of them made great eating. It was nice to be able to try a small bit to see what I liked, then go back for more.

The herring are displayed in a large spread in the middle of the dining room. There's plenty of rye bread and potatoes to go with it, which are particularly good with some of the saltier options.

If you can't face this much herring there are other options. For one thing, the inn's well-stocked bar has an extensive selection of home-made aquavits. As I didn't particularly want to drink my way under the table I passed on this, and had water instead. But there are also some Danish smørrebrød (open-faced sandwiches), though I'd personally go to an actual smørrebrød place for a wider selection. Dinner includes some multi-course options, including salmon or steak, at Kr.285 ($52) including dessert.

Since I had the buffet, service wasn't much more than showing me the table and refilling my water glass, but still polite and efficient, as you'd expect in Denmark.

I left full and happy, having eating more herring in one sitting than I usually eat in a good season. I wouldn't eat there everyday but it's nice to visit once in a while.
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