Randomness (r_ness) wrote,

Montreal is a 24-hour town, yes.

(This is info for anyone going to Montreal, but it's being posted now because a bunch of friends are going there next week for Worldcon.)

Montreal is the kind of place where you not only can get good food 24 hours a day, you can actually get to that food and back on public transit at a stupid hour of the morning. You should not find yourself eating out of a hotel vending machine at 3:30AM. Here are a couple of suggestions to keep you out of the vend-o-mat.

First, there are two 24 hour bagel bakeries in Mile End: Fairmount Bagel (http://www.fairmountbagel.com/eng/index.htm, 74 Fairmount West (between Clark and St-Urbain), (514) 272-0667) and St-Viateur Bagel (http://www.stviateurbagel.com/main/, 263 St-Viateur West (between Parc and Jeanne-Mance), (514) 276-8044). Note that St-Viateur Bagel has a second location three blocks down which is not open all night, so if you find yourself standing in front of 158 St-Viateur West looking sadly at a locked door--which happened to us--do not despair. Cross the street and walk three blocks farther west, towards Parc.

At both, you can get fresh bagels, still hot from the wood-fired oven, in a variety of flavors--try the traditional ones first, because some of the newer ones are reportedly disappointing--24/7, starting at 60 cents Canadian apiece.

Note also that these are Montreal-style bagels, not New York-style bagels.

From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Montreal-style_bagel: "The Montreal bagel, (sometimes beigel; Yiddish בײגל beygl, or sometimes in French "beguel"), is a distinctive variety of hand-made and wood-fired baked bagel. In contrast to the New York-style bagel[1], the Montreal bagel is smaller, sweeter and denser, with a larger hole, and is always baked in a wood-fired oven."

I really don't want to hear about which are better. Different Eastern European Jews brought different recipes.

(Final note is that if you want actual kosher Montreal-style bagels, you'll have to go to the Mount Royal Bagel Factory, at 709 Lucerne (corner Jean-Talon West), (514) 735-1174. They are not open all night, however. A listing of kosher bakeries can be found at the Montreal Kosher site: http://www.mk.ca/bakeries.html.)

Second, there's that Quebec invention, poutine. Again, from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poutine: "Poutine (Quebec French pronunciation ˈputsɪn (help·info)) is a dish consisting of French fries topped with fresh cheese curds, covered with brown gravy and sometimes additional ingredients."

24/7, poutine in over two dozen varieties can be found at La Banquise (http://www.restolabanquise.com/index.php?page=accueil&sp=&langue=an, 994 Rachel East (corner Parc Lafontaine), (514) 525-2415), a hipster haven over in the Plateau. The classic poutine comes in two sizes. Small was around $6, and large (feeds more than one) maybe $7.50. I can't remember because I can't imagine getting something bigger than a small for myself.

La Banquise also serves breakfast and a variety of other food, but I've only been there for their poutine. I was there last week, so the prices should be about right, allowing for my imperfect memory.

The Orange Julep (7700 Décarie, at Paré) which I posted about recently, is also open around the clock during the summer. Hot dogs are around $2, and a small orange julep is just under $2. Me, I usually get at least a medium. They also have burgers and a variety of other drive-in food, but I've never had any of it.

I also want to put in a plug for a place I found a couple of weeks ago which won't appear on anyone's 24-hour list, because I think it's pretty new. Le Gourmet, 414 Saint-Zotique East (corner St-Denis), up in Rosemont-Petite-Patrie, near Beaubien Metro, has a generally diner-y menu but executes those items very well. I had an excellent spaghetti carbonara for around $12, and the poutine was quite good, too. Again, order a large at your own risk; we couldn't finish the small, although we made the mistake of treating it as a side-dish to share. Staff were very nice in a home-town kind of way, even at 1:30 AM. Portions were generous.

http://montreal.com/tourism/24hr.html has a helpful list of 24 hour places, but it's not exhaustive. For one thing, there's a 24-hour fruit/vegetable market (!) right near the Côte-des-Neiges Metro station, called Les Trottiers Fruits et Légumes, which it doesn't list. It's on the northeast corner of Côte-des-Neiges and Jean Brillant. The Montreal Gazette article on the neighborhood (http://www2.canada.com/montrealgazette/news/arts/story.html?id=62f8bd7c-cf24-4ca4-ab02-153176edd869) says: "Besides a wide variety of fruit and vegetables, its counters offer maple and honey products, herbs, plants and cut flowers." I mean, I wouldn't go out of my way to go there when Jean-Talon Market (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jean-Talon_Market) is open, because really Jean-Talon is the place to go for that. But if you need fruit and veg at 4AM...

That neighborhood also has a couple of 24-hour coffee shops, and a 24-hour supermarket. But the Plateau (along Mont-Royal, walking east from the Metro stop of the same name) also has some late-night/all-night coffee, so you don't need to go quite so far for that.

My next post will discuss taking the night buses after the Metro stops running.
Tags: food
  • Post a new comment


    default userpic

    Your reply will be screened

    Your IP address will be recorded 

    When you submit the form an invisible reCAPTCHA check will be performed.
    You must follow the Privacy Policy and Google Terms of use.